Thursday, June 13, 2013

The next disaster? :: Reflections on Germany, China and the rest of the West

Over the weekend, I was travelling from Berlin to the south-western parts of the country. As the Deutsche Bahn (German Railways) has found some serious challengers in long-distance bus coaches, I decided to take one of the newcomers that usually provides good services, fast drivers and also much cheaper tickets than Deutsche Bahn. It was not the best time ever to travel from the East to the South, believe me.

Perhaps nobody can escape the current photo, video and interview tsunami that sweeps through old and new media on the flooding in large parts of Germany. Old Town districts and small villages in the South, East, North and West threatened by wave after wave of violent masses of water. Whole landscapes, farm areas, bridges and motorways nearly vanishing in water and mud. Small rivers becoming enormous streams and people being evacuated by the thousands. Every able-bodied inhabitant, family members, friends and official Germany such as the Bundeswehr - all are desperately trying to save the last belongings.

Seriously, I did not really expect to drown on my way to the southern parts of Germany, but the sight of water endlessly pouring down the landscapes was a disturbing one nevertheless. The motorways we took were water-free, but just so.

But back to the reason why I was travelling to the South-West. As a native of this beautiful part of Germany (I am shamelessly bragging here), I normally really do enjoy the sights and vistas. Baden (and Württemberg, to a lesser extent, in my view) are truly good places to be born, raised and schooled. Both have a lot of old churches and historical monuments, amazing nature trails and - not to forget - excellent food (if you know where to go).

One of my oldest Chinese friends is currently working in the south-western countryside, and as we had not met for a very long time, we decided to meet half-way between Berlin and the border to Switzerland to save him some time. I can tell you, a Chinese guy who speaks several dialects and languages (Swabian, Mandarin and English) is a real treat for most people in this part of Germany.

A region that is inhabited by a species of people that is renowned for being stubborn, arrogant, conservative and very strict. As my friend had some (Chinese) colleagues with him, my sojourn in this nice little town was a little strange.

Imagine a German Biergarten (beer garden) filled with lots and lots of people on the weekend - bikers in heavy outfits, still sweating cyclists, other travellers and some locals. All trying very hard to have a good time. Drinking wine and beer, and more beer, and more wine. Eating in the Biergarten and enjoying themselves. Even a wedding took place when we stayed there (a rather lame one, by the way; the wedding guests partied until around 1 p.m., and then everybody went to bed).

We enjoyed the relatively high temperatures (up to now, we could not even imagine to see the sun again) and the very fine food, too. For some time, at least. When the first Biergarten customers started to complain about the invasion of so-called 'Schlitzaugen' or 'Chinks' (the common denominator for everybody who looks Asian, making absolutely no difference between Japanese, Korean or Chinese nationalities), I had a really hard time remembering all the stuff my parents taught me once. Behave yourself in public. Do not cross others even if you are right. Be nice to the elderly even if they are so drunk they can't articulate one clear sentence. Respect authorities whoever they are (church, police, politicians and so on).

I do understand that people can feel intimidated by a small group of Yellows and Whites evidently having fun. I really do. Telling each others jokes in three different languages (e.g., 'How do the Chinese vent their anger when challenged by somebody not from the same hometown or region? They cry out loud: "Your brother plays for Guangzhou Evergrande" and "Your nephew plays for Shanghai Shenhua"!' Note: As the Chinese Football League is notorious for having mostly inapt local players, money galore and former football stars from Europe, this is not just a bad joke, but a serious insult.). Laughing loudly. Smoking strong Chinese cigarettes. Being treated like royalty by hotel and restaurant staff.

But what I can not - and never will - accept is the prototypical German (and maybe even European) attitude towards everything that is new, foreign or more dynamic than the natives are used to. Racial, cultural, religious and gender (I admit, I have no idea how many there are right now) prejudices seem to be so deeply ingrained into the German soul (whatever that is) that no sophisticated image campaign, new law or political goodwill will change that any time soon.

Especially threatening to some Germans are the new powers in the Far East - often chaotic, authoritarian, anarchic or just really really big states. China, South Korea, Japan, India and all the other smaller or bigger tigers and dragons (or whatever they are called right now in the West) in the Asian hemisphere have been demonstrating for a very long time that neither parliamentary democracy nor crass Manchester capitalism is incompatible with local cultures, ever-changing political systems or still cherished traditions dating back thousands of years.

Old Europe is slowly withering away, and the old (no, I did not forget about the US) global players and the newly emerging ones in the Far East and Far West will invent, reinvent and ultimately change global habits, lifestyles, technologies and work arrangements.

Like it or not, but get used to it.

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